Radius Garden Root Slayer 22011 Shovel: Cut Roots as You Dig

A planting hole can look simple from above. The interruption comes below the surface, when a shovel meets a root and slides aside. The Radius Garden Root Slayer 22011 puts an inverted V-shaped notch at its tip and rows of cutting teeth along the blade, giving that obstruction a place to meet an edge.

For gardeners dividing established perennials or reworking beds crossed by roots, the appeal is doing more cutting with the shovel already in hand. This is the original red model with the circular handle.

A notch where a pointed tip would be

The shallow notch is the blade's most consequential detail. In its account of the design, Radius explains that a notched tip concentrates the user's downward force on a root instead of encouraging the blade to slide away from it.

That makes the Root Slayer worth considering when an ordinary digging session repeatedly turns into a separate cutting job. The notch addresses the point of contact; it does not promise that every root will part in one push. Large, stubborn roots can still require a separate cutting tool.

The side teeth cut on the downstroke

The teeth along both sides extend the cutting function beyond the tip. Radius describes them as a series of small blades facing the same direction, designed to cut during the downward stroke. They should not be understood as a conventional saw that works equally in both directions.

That arrangement is useful when opening a planting hole or working around a perennial clump: roots may meet the sides as well as the bottom of the blade. The benefit is having cutting edges where those contacts occur, reducing the need to change tools for every interruption.

Boot steps below, a choice of holds above

Working around a perennial clump means placing the blade at several points along its edge. The broad shoulders above the blade give your boot a defined step for applying downward pressure. There is a step on each side, so you can use the one that suits your stance as you move around the planting area.

At the other end, the O-shaped handle lets you shift your hand around the ring as you reposition the shovel. When moving from the front of a clump to its side, you can change your hold along with your position. The thermoplastic grip surface covers the upper part of the ring. If a fixed crossbar feels awkward during those changes, this shape is worth trying.

Radius lists the original at 44.5 inches overall and 5 pounds 8 ounces, with a 13-inch tempered carbon-steel blade and a plastic-covered steel shaft. That weight is something to consider when repeatedly raising the shovel for another cut or carrying it between beds. For long sessions of moving loose potting mix, a lighter shovel may be easier to handle.

Cut first; lift only what is free

The current Amazon listing for the 22011 explicitly says the shovel is not intended for prying or excessive leverage. That boundary matters when a root clump resists: use the cutting edges to free it, or reach for another suitable tool, rather than leaning harder on the shaft as a pry bar.

Keeping those edges in working condition is part of owning it. Radius recommends cleaning tool blades after use and applying a light coat of tool oil. Its sharpening guidance says to work from the side already beveled and follow the existing angle. Store the shovel under cover; prolonged sun and heat can deteriorate the thermoplastic grip.

The 22011 makes sense for dividing established perennials and opening planting holes where roots interrupt the digging. Its notched tip helps center the cut on a root, and its side edges extend the cutting action along the blade. The boot steps and ring grip support placing and pressing the shovel as you work around the clump.